QUESTION: “I am not too much of a gardener. I am looking for a pretty, low-growing plant that can survive in clay, in a steep incline in a ditch area and will also be low maintenance. I have medical issues and cannot continue to weed-eat my ditch. I would like to have a plant that will choke out the weeds. Will any plant do that? Do you have a suggestion for what I am looking for? I have a 200 feet long ditch I would like to cover. It’s hard to get anything to grow.” – Penny Cooper
ANSWER: Weed eating on sloped areas is difficult at any time! There really isn’t anything that is going to thicken an area enough to fully choke out weeds. At least that has been my experience at home and at the nursery.
The best way I have found is to lay erosion netting which allows water/moisture to penetrate, yet holds the soil intact, is dark enough to prevent weeds from germinating and can be planted through. Once your netting is secured (using ground staples) to the ground, you can cut X’s where you want to plant. This will control the weed situation for about 3 to 5 years as the netting will disintegrate over that time. That time will allow you to plant something which will fill in the area.
Plants that work for this purpose are liriope, vinca, ivy, pachysandra, creeping rosemary, creeping thyme and the sedum. The last three varieties (creeping rosemary, creeping thyme and sedum) will only grow well if the area remains dry as they don’t like moisture/wet soils. I hope this gives you some ideas to build on.
QUESTION: “I noticed some holes in the trunk and some branches of my pear trees. There are hundreds of them. They are all in rows of 10-12 holes all up and down the trees and cannot identify the culprit. Can you give me some suggestions on what to do? Is this going to kill the trees?” – Sid Hasty ANSWER: If you have ruled out borers (their tell tale sign is usually sawdust at the base of the tree), then it might be a woodpecker. With the woodpecker, you can only try to keep it away from the tree.
If it is borers, here is a link to a Web site with more info: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/Ptlk/1417.html The site is hosted by the Extension service of Colorado State University and notes that most borers attack trees weakened by drought, mechanical injury, recent transplants, poor soils or root systems. The most important prevention of borers is keeping trees healthy through proper management.
The Web site gives suggestions for proper management and treatment (which isn’t easy as the insects live inside the tree.). If you think the problem might be borers, take a look at the info at that site. You can click on a link when you find this column at my Web site, www.landsteward.org
QUESTION: “I planted some trees 2 years ago and added Bio Paks to their planting hole. The trees have done very well, and I'm inclined to add Bio Paks again, since the 2 year slow release is about completed. “Are Bio Paks only for newly-planted trees? Will my established trees benefit from them? If so, how do I add the Paks? If not, do you have any recommendations? I just want to make sure the trees continue to grow well and thrive.” – Paula Kelly
ANSWER: Bio-Paks are for plants of all ages. On established plants, just “plant” the Bio-Paks on the upper part of the root system so that when it rains or the plants are watered, the water will flow through the Paks and onto the roots. How many Paks will be determined by the size of the plants.
For younger trees, like yours, you may still be good with one, two Bio Paks at most. As the trees get more and more height on them, just increase the number of Paks used. For example on a 5 foot tall tree, you could use two of the Paks.
The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, including archived columns, visit www.landsteward.org
